CORN BORER

CORN BORER

The European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis), also known as the European corn worm or European high-flyer, is a mothof the family Crambidae which includes other grass moths.

LIFECYCLE

The European corn borer progresses through four developmental stages. These are the egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The insect is referred to as a borer in its larval stage and as a moth in its adult stage. The adult moths lay their eggs on corn plants.

LARVA

In this stage it causes maximum damage.

The fully grown larva is 0.75 to 1 inch (1.9-2.5 cm) in length. Larva vary in color from light brown to pinkish gray and have conspicuous small, round, brown spots on each segment along the body. As they grow they reach between 2 and 20 mm. The larva feed on the corn whorl and burrow into the stalk and ear. They have high mortality directly after emergence, but as soon as a feeding site is established, they have better survival rates. Total development before pupation lasts 50 days on average.

PREVENTION

Hybrid selection 

Effective and economical insect control in corn production relies heavily on selecting the appropriate Bt corn hybrid. After growers consider a hybrid’s high yield potential, area adaptation and disease package, they can use different Bt technologies for insect control and resistance management. Growers can also use hybrids with multiple Bt traits for the same pest to assist with resistance management.

CONTROL

There are many chemical products available in  market for control of corn borer.

some organic meathods are :

• use once a week spray of neem oil with garlic juice .this will prevent adults to lay eggs.
• use yellow colour sticky papers for catching adults if on small scale
• spray of BT BACTEERIUM is also nvery beneficial even it is organic too.

NEMATODES

NEMATODES

NEMATODE  WERE FIRST FOUND IN 1920.

THESE ARE VERY DANGEROUS BACTERIA .THEY GREW IN ROOTS OF PLANTS AND USES  NUTRIENTS OF PLANTS  AND MULLTIPLY  INSIDE IT AND HINDERS THE GROWTH OF PLANTS.

PREVENTION

• DRY THE SOIL ATLEAST  FOR 2 WEEKS IN FULL SUNLIGHT BEFORE SOWING NEXT CROP IT WILL KILL NEAMOTODES  NATURALLY.
• PROPER DRY TILLING OF LAND IS REQUIRED .

ORGANIC CONTROL OVER NEMATODES NEMATODES

• USE COWDUNG IN FIELDS NEARLY 8 TROLLES PER ACRE .THIS WILL HELP IN CONTROLLING NEMATODES.
• THERE ARE MANY NEUMATODES KILLERS AVAILABLE IN MARKET LIKE OF PATANJALI WHICH CAN BE USED IN COMBINATION WITH ORGANIC MANURE.
• USE GOAT AND POLUTARY FARMS MANURES

CHEMICAL CONTROL

• LIQUID PRODUCTS FOR KILLING NEMMATODES IS AVAILABLE IN MARKET FROM BAYER CROPSCIENCE WHOSE DOSE IN NEARLY HALF LITRE PER ACRE IN  STANDING WATER IN FIELDS
• GRANULES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE WHICH ARE WELL MIXED IN SOIL AND THEN FIELD IS WATERED.ITS DOSES IS NEARLY 2 KG PER ACRE  AND NEARLY 100grams  FOR LARGE PLANTS . 

MEALY BUG

Mealybug

These plant-sucking pests are a familiar problem in greenhouses, in gardens, and on indoor plants. Here’s how to control mealybugs naturally with beneficial insects, insecticidal soaps, and other natural techniques.

Found in warmer growing climates, mealybugs are soft-bodied, wingless insects that often appear as white cottony masses on the leaves, stems and fruit of plants. They feed by inserting long sucking mouthparts, called stylets, into plants and drawing sap out of the tissue. Damage is not often significant at low pest levels. However, at higher numbers they can cause leaf yellowing and curling as the plant weakens. Feeding is usually accompanied by honeydew, which makes the plant sticky and encourages the growth of sooty moulds. Mealybugs are a common greenhouse pest that affect ornamentals, houseplants, avocados and fruits.

Identification

Adults (1/10 — 1/4 inch long) are soft, oval distinctly segmented insects that are usually covered with a white or gray mealy wax. Small nymphs, called crawlers, are light yellow and free of wax. They are active early on, but move little once a suitable feeding site is found.

Note: There are approximately 275 species of mealybugs known to occur throughout the india

Life Cycle

Adult females deposit 300-600 eggs within an excreted, compact, waxy cottony-appearing mass mostly found on the underside of leaves (these egg cases can be confused with downy mildew). Egg laying is continues for about 2 weeks with the female dying shortly after all eggs are laid. Hatching occurs within 1-3 weeks and the small active yellow nymphs begin migrating over the plant in search of feeding sites on which to settle.

RED MITES

RED MITES

Red spider mites can be one of two kinds of mites, either the European red spider mite or the Southern red spider mite. The most common red spider mite is the Southern variety. The European spider mite is normally only seen on apple trees, while the Southern spider mite attacks a much wider variety of plants. A spider mite is related to spiders and is an arachnid, but are smaller and have only one body section (where spiders have two). Identifying Red Spider Mites A plant that is infested by red spider mites will start to look unhealthy and will have a dusty appearance to the undersides of their leaves. Close inspection will reveal that the dust is actually moving and is in fact the spider mites. The plant may also have some webbing on the underside or on the branches of plant. You cannot easily make out the details of red spider mites with the naked eye but a simple magnifying glass can make the details more visible. A red spider mite will be all red. There are other kinds of spider mites, such as the two-spotted spider mite, that are partially red. Red spider mites will be all red. Knocking some off onto a piece of white paper will make it easier to distinguish the colors. How to Control Red Spider Mites Red spider mites are most active in cool weather, so you are most likely to see an infestation of them in the spring or fall. The best way to control red spider mites is through the use of their natural predators. Lacewings and ladybugs are commonly used, but predatory mites can also be used. All of these spider mite predators are available from reputable gardening supply centers and websites. You can also use pesticides to eliminate red spider mites. Insecticidal soaps and oils work best. You should be careful using pesticides though as they will also kill their natural predators and the red spider mites may simply move from the pesticide treated area to non-treated areas. Of course, the best way to eliminate red spider mites is to make sure you don’t get them in the fist place. Work to keep plants healthy and the areas around the plants free of debris and dust to keep red spider mites away. Also, make sure plants have enough water. The water will help keep the red spider mites away as they prefer very dry environments.\

ORGANIC CONTROL

NEEM OIL SPRAY

APHIDS

Controlling Aphids: Homemade Aphid Spray Recipes and Tips

Jassid is a sucking pest occurring throughout the crop growing period on cotton in all the zones. The pest injects toxins into leaves while feeding which results in abnormal changes in leaves - marginal chlorosis and reddening. Since the pest severity is dependent on the occurrence of congenial weather conditions, we have devised weather based rules for weekly prediction of the pest severity. Based on severity prediction (based on ETL), pest management interventions and sprays can be taken up taking into account parameters such as pesticide efficacy, safety, spray interval (a gap of 7-15 days is advised between sprays), crop age and economics.

Vinegar

Castile soap is a versatile all-natural, vegetable-based liquid soap with olive and mineral oil as the main ingredients. When combined with vinegar and water, Castile makes a DIY natural aphid spray. The vinegar deters future garden pests from invading your new growth.

Neem Oil

Pure and organic Neem oil can be used to repel aphids, cabbage worms, other pests, as well as help control any fungi they transfer into your garden. Simply mix Neem oil for plants with a quart of water.

Once you dilute the Neem oil, use a garden hose sprayer to mist your garden with the mixture in the early morning. Neem oil doesn’t have any harmful effects on beneficial insects, but it does help in repelling aphids, mosquitoes, and other pests.

Garlic Oil Spray

Garlic isn’t just used to repel vampires. The sulfur in garlic is toxic to pests. It also kills ladybugs and other beneficial insects. For that reason, this garlic-based natural aphid spray should only be used if you don’t have any essential bugs in your garden.

THRIPS

THRIPS

HOW TO IDENTIFY AND GET RID OF THRIPS

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Have you seen thrips damage on your plants? Here are tips for identifying and

 getting rid of thrips in your garden.

WHAT ARE THRIPS?

Thrips are tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle that dine on many plants 

worldwide. Also known as thysanoptera or thunderflies, thrips are sucking insects 

that can cause some damage to plants. However, their damage can be much worse 

when they transmit viruses to plants.

Thrips Life Cycle: The life cycle depends on the species of thrips

 as well as the location, host plant, and other factors. Adult thrips overwinter in 

plant debris,

 bark,
or other materials. They become active in early spring and lay eggs in plant 

tissue. These eggs hatch after 3–5 days, and the nymphs then feed for 1–3 weeks 

before resting to molt in 1–2 weeks. Thrips can have up to 15 generations per year

 outdoors. Adult thrips live short lives of about one month.

IDENTIFICATION

IDENTIFYING THRIPS

Adult thrips are slender and tiny, at ⅕0- to ½5-inches long. Their colors can be 

anywhere from yellow to brown or black, and if you try to get close to them, they

 will probably leap or fly away. They have narrow, fringed wings. The nymphs look

 like even smaller adults, though they tend to be light green or yellow rather than

 darker colors. Their wings are also not fully developed, and they sometimes have

 red eyes.

Thrips appear to be tiny dark slivers on your plants. It is hard to see their bodies well without a magnifying glass, but up close, they look a bit like lobsters. Shake them

 onto a white background in order to see them well.

THRIPS DAMAGE

Thrips damage includes streaks, silvery speckling, and small white patches. This

 happens because the thrips suck plant cells from many garden plants, flowers, 

fruits, and shade trees. If you have a major infestation of thrips, your plants might 

be stunted with damaged flowers and fruit. The damage that you notice might instead

 come from the virus that the thrips spread (usually tomato spotted wilt virus).

CONTROL AND PREVENTION

HOW TO GET RID OF THRIPS

• To keep thrips populations under control, try using yellow or blue sticky traps.
• Shaking branches to remove the thrips and catching them on a cloth underneath is one easy way to quickly remove the thrips from your plants.
• For onion thrips: Take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. 
• A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
• For fruit trees: Spray dormant oil on the trees.
• As a last resort, dust the undersides of leaves with diatomaceous earth.

HOW TO PREVENT THRIPS

• For flower thrips on gladiolus: Mix 1 tablespoon Lysol household cleaner with 1 gallon water. Soak gladiolus corms in the liquid and plant while still wet to prevent thrips.
• You can plant various flowers to attract beneficial insects that are natural predators to thrips. Some good predators include pirate bugs, lacewings, and lady bugs. Learn more about attracting those predators.
• For onion and western flower thrips, try releasing minute pirate bugs or the predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris.
• Reflective mulches can help to hide your plants from thrips.
• If there is a very big thrips problem in your area, some plants have resistant varieties.
• Try not to overfertilize plants, as this can lead to more thrips damage.

Do you have more tips for controlling thrips? Let us know below!

Crops and plants AFFECTED

• cotton
• rice
• wheat
• gauvar
• orange
• lemon
• tomato